Hola! I'm finally back with part II (link to part I Women On Wheels : Leh, July 2015 - Part I). It took forever, I know! So without further ado let's get this baby rolling.
After being on the move for almost 4 days we decided to give ourselves, and the wheels, a much needed and well deserved break. Hopping through local eating joints, a short drive to the Magnetic Hill and oodles of peace and soul searching at Shanti Stupa in the evening was how our day looked like.
Can't say about Magnetic Hill but Shanti Stupa definitely was magnetic. Located at a hilltop in the Changspa area, it holds the relics of the Buddha at its base, enshrined by the 14th Dalai Lama and provides splendid view of the entire town. One can easily spend hours here watching the panoramic views of the surrounding landscape. The peace you get here is unmatchable. Try and visit the meditation hall, it's magical especially when the monks are praying. The Stupa is lit up in the evening, so one can spot the stupa from far and wide and what a site it is!
After spending good two hours at the Shanti Stupa we decided to spend the day, or whatever was left of it, at this amazing café - G Kitchen (on Changspa road) - Good food, great location, not too crowded, awesome music, and like everywhere else in Leh, great people.
The locals suggested that we should visit Pangong Tso as our next destination. The route to Hunder via Khardung La was partially damaged due to a landslide so that had to be skipped although I had the privilege to visit Hunder when I visited Leh the first time around (more on that in another post).
Btw, Tso means Lake so it is either Pangong Tso or Pangong Lake, not Pangong Tso Lake..just saying 😜 The locals will tell you that it'll take around 4-5 hours, please note that's the time the locals take. It took us almost 7 hours, yes that's approx. the time you'll take to reach if you're not a local or Schumacher.
Leh to Pangong Lake (150 kms. approx.) : From Leh, take the Leh-Manali highway till Karu. You can stop here for breakfast, and also because you will have to complete the form filling formalities at the check post. The form requires to be filled up with the driver details, the passenger details, along with the vehicle details. The form will then need to be submitted at the check post up ahead.
From Karu, there are two routes, one going towards Keylong and the other towards Pangong. You know which one to take 😁 Once you cross Karu, you will start approaching the road (if you can call it one) to Chang La, the third highest motorable pass. Some of the co travelers on the road got a bit worried. I'm just a 5 feet nothing, I think they were not able to see me at all behind the wheels so you can imagine their reactions 😛
The road is treacherous, to say the least. Since I've been to Khardung La on one of my earlier trips so I can say this with conviction that this one's a curve ball..totally 😕 There's black ice, snow walls, water streams flowing right through the middle of the road, and a steep ascent. Not necessarily in that same order though.
Drive peacefully and you'll stay alive. No other tips or tricks. At the Chang La top, there's the Chang La baba mandir, a canteen where you can get yourself a cup of tea and some snacks and snow all around. Do not fool around for too long. The air is very thin at such altitudes, you wouldn't even know what hit you. Washrooms are there, only if you can call them so. Do not expect much.
The descent from Chang La is relatively easier, do not quote me on that 😀
The road to Pangong is pretty interesting, there're water streams of course, and then there are frozen lakes, sand (yeah sand!), long stretches of green, then barren lands, and repeat. A bit patchy here and there, but overall a decent drive. One important thing to note, there are places where the road completely disappears thanks to the flowing water on the road or sand!. Drive slow and you'll be able to get through without a scratch. Also, be on the road as early as you can coz as the day rises so does the water level.
You will get the first view of the Pangong around 4-5 kms before reaching the lake (there's a board also put up there). Pray to god that you get a clear weather coz we didn't and I can tell you it wasn't the slightest bit funny. Do not stop coz with rains the possibility of landslides also increases. Just keep moving till you reach your accommodation.
As always, we did not have a booked accommodation, so we reached and got ourselves a cottage (that's the first thing we could lay our hands on given that the weather wasn't being too favourable for accommodation hunting). A two room, plus separate drawing-dining area, with attached bathroom, cost us INR4000.00. This included our meals too. It was only the two of us but the place could easily accommodate 4-5 adults. The location was perfect with the lake being right in front of us. I don't have the name of the place but I am putting up a picture so you'll be able to identify it easily.
Advance booking is recommended while visiting Pangong due to the high footfall that the place witnesses. Advance booking also means that you could get budget accommodations much more easily.
The lake and the surroundings make for an enchanting view. It's a bird watcher's paradise and the changing hues of the lake just add to the magic. I got some of the best shots of the entire trip here.
A drive along the lake is a must, not on the sand bank, I mean on the road. Cars tend to get stuck in the sand and then it's unnecessary trouble for the locals out there, if not for you. So steer away please and be a responsible traveler, DO NOT LITTER. Carry your trash back with you to the mainland and then dispose them off properly. Basically, do not disturb the ecological balance of the place.
Pangong Tso is situated at a height of approx. 14,000 feet, so it's cold and windy even during the summer months. Carry appropriate clothing (a mix of cottons and woollens) and altitude sickness medicines with you. Take extra care if you are travelling with kids.
After an overnight stay we moved back to Leh the next day.
Route Taken : Leh - Karu - Sakti - Chang La - Durbuk - Tangtse - Lukung - Pangong Tso and back
The previous day's thunderstorm ensured that the count of water streams had increased, coupled with mud and slush. It had started to snow by the time we reached Chang La which made the drive a wee bit tricky but supremely exciting at the same time. We were back in Leh in good time thanks to our early morning start routine.
Dark clouds had started to hover over Leh and news of rain and landslides had started pouring in from all sides and also Khardungla was still getting fixed so we decided to start our journey back to Delhi the next day. This is where I tell you that June is a better month to be here than July and that you should always have some extra days in hand to accommodate such unforeseen situations.
I'll end part II here and detail our way back to Delhi in Part III. Till we meet again, Bon voyage! Stay safe, stay healthy and keep moving..see you soon 👋
Did you read the first part of this exciting journey? No! Read now 👉 Women On Wheels : Leh, July 2015 - Part I
And the last part is also up, go give it a read Women On Wheels : Leh, July 2015 - Part III and don't forget to leave your comments..i'll be waiting 😊
After being on the move for almost 4 days we decided to give ourselves, and the wheels, a much needed and well deserved break. Hopping through local eating joints, a short drive to the Magnetic Hill and oodles of peace and soul searching at Shanti Stupa in the evening was how our day looked like.
Can't say about Magnetic Hill but Shanti Stupa definitely was magnetic. Located at a hilltop in the Changspa area, it holds the relics of the Buddha at its base, enshrined by the 14th Dalai Lama and provides splendid view of the entire town. One can easily spend hours here watching the panoramic views of the surrounding landscape. The peace you get here is unmatchable. Try and visit the meditation hall, it's magical especially when the monks are praying. The Stupa is lit up in the evening, so one can spot the stupa from far and wide and what a site it is!
After spending good two hours at the Shanti Stupa we decided to spend the day, or whatever was left of it, at this amazing café - G Kitchen (on Changspa road) - Good food, great location, not too crowded, awesome music, and like everywhere else in Leh, great people.
The locals suggested that we should visit Pangong Tso as our next destination. The route to Hunder via Khardung La was partially damaged due to a landslide so that had to be skipped although I had the privilege to visit Hunder when I visited Leh the first time around (more on that in another post).
Btw, Tso means Lake so it is either Pangong Tso or Pangong Lake, not Pangong Tso Lake..just saying 😜 The locals will tell you that it'll take around 4-5 hours, please note that's the time the locals take. It took us almost 7 hours, yes that's approx. the time you'll take to reach if you're not a local or Schumacher.
Leh to Pangong Lake (150 kms. approx.) : From Leh, take the Leh-Manali highway till Karu. You can stop here for breakfast, and also because you will have to complete the form filling formalities at the check post. The form requires to be filled up with the driver details, the passenger details, along with the vehicle details. The form will then need to be submitted at the check post up ahead.
From Karu, there are two routes, one going towards Keylong and the other towards Pangong. You know which one to take 😁 Once you cross Karu, you will start approaching the road (if you can call it one) to Chang La, the third highest motorable pass. Some of the co travelers on the road got a bit worried. I'm just a 5 feet nothing, I think they were not able to see me at all behind the wheels so you can imagine their reactions 😛
The road is treacherous, to say the least. Since I've been to Khardung La on one of my earlier trips so I can say this with conviction that this one's a curve ball..totally 😕 There's black ice, snow walls, water streams flowing right through the middle of the road, and a steep ascent. Not necessarily in that same order though.
At the top
Drive peacefully and you'll stay alive. No other tips or tricks. At the Chang La top, there's the Chang La baba mandir, a canteen where you can get yourself a cup of tea and some snacks and snow all around. Do not fool around for too long. The air is very thin at such altitudes, you wouldn't even know what hit you. Washrooms are there, only if you can call them so. Do not expect much.
The descent from Chang La is relatively easier, do not quote me on that 😀
The road to Pangong is pretty interesting, there're water streams of course, and then there are frozen lakes, sand (yeah sand!), long stretches of green, then barren lands, and repeat. A bit patchy here and there, but overall a decent drive. One important thing to note, there are places where the road completely disappears thanks to the flowing water on the road or sand!. Drive slow and you'll be able to get through without a scratch. Also, be on the road as early as you can coz as the day rises so does the water level.
You will get the first view of the Pangong around 4-5 kms before reaching the lake (there's a board also put up there). Pray to god that you get a clear weather coz we didn't and I can tell you it wasn't the slightest bit funny. Do not stop coz with rains the possibility of landslides also increases. Just keep moving till you reach your accommodation.
As always, we did not have a booked accommodation, so we reached and got ourselves a cottage (that's the first thing we could lay our hands on given that the weather wasn't being too favourable for accommodation hunting). A two room, plus separate drawing-dining area, with attached bathroom, cost us INR4000.00. This included our meals too. It was only the two of us but the place could easily accommodate 4-5 adults. The location was perfect with the lake being right in front of us. I don't have the name of the place but I am putting up a picture so you'll be able to identify it easily.
Advance booking is recommended while visiting Pangong due to the high footfall that the place witnesses. Advance booking also means that you could get budget accommodations much more easily.
The lake and the surroundings make for an enchanting view. It's a bird watcher's paradise and the changing hues of the lake just add to the magic. I got some of the best shots of the entire trip here.
A drive along the lake is a must, not on the sand bank, I mean on the road. Cars tend to get stuck in the sand and then it's unnecessary trouble for the locals out there, if not for you. So steer away please and be a responsible traveler, DO NOT LITTER. Carry your trash back with you to the mainland and then dispose them off properly. Basically, do not disturb the ecological balance of the place.
Pangong Tso is situated at a height of approx. 14,000 feet, so it's cold and windy even during the summer months. Carry appropriate clothing (a mix of cottons and woollens) and altitude sickness medicines with you. Take extra care if you are travelling with kids.
After an overnight stay we moved back to Leh the next day.
Route Taken : Leh - Karu - Sakti - Chang La - Durbuk - Tangtse - Lukung - Pangong Tso and back
The previous day's thunderstorm ensured that the count of water streams had increased, coupled with mud and slush. It had started to snow by the time we reached Chang La which made the drive a wee bit tricky but supremely exciting at the same time. We were back in Leh in good time thanks to our early morning start routine.
Dark clouds had started to hover over Leh and news of rain and landslides had started pouring in from all sides and also Khardungla was still getting fixed so we decided to start our journey back to Delhi the next day. This is where I tell you that June is a better month to be here than July and that you should always have some extra days in hand to accommodate such unforeseen situations.
I'll end part II here and detail our way back to Delhi in Part III. Till we meet again, Bon voyage! Stay safe, stay healthy and keep moving..see you soon 👋
Did you read the first part of this exciting journey? No! Read now 👉 Women On Wheels : Leh, July 2015 - Part I
And the last part is also up, go give it a read Women On Wheels : Leh, July 2015 - Part III and don't forget to leave your comments..i'll be waiting 😊
Superlike the blog... Thanks to part I, I could start a journey of my own on my own... And, thanks to the delay of the part II, I had my share of individual experiences and excitements. 😊
ReplyDeleteThat was deliberate 😉
ReplyDeleteNow I feel like driving to that place!!!
ReplyDeleteYou should. Hit me up if you have any questions. Would be happy to help. 😊
DeleteWow! It was a lovely read, Swati. I have been there so could relate 😊 Hats off to you for daring self driving expeditions like this. Keep writing!
ReplyDeleteThank you so much Anjali 😊
DeleteAwesome girl. Reading this made me relive my Leh trip. Plz wrote more frequently 😉
ReplyDeleteWill do Suman..thanks a ton 😊
Delete